Features
Riders Of The Storm
Three friends, two Yezdi bikes, one unforgiving terrain; and in the end, will triumphed over the snow clad mountains | By Mukesh Venu
On Feb 09, 2012

 

 

The spirit of adventure and the urge to cross the line has made man what he is. In doing so, bonds can be formed between humans, human and beast and human and machines; and among machines, the bond between a man and his bike has been something special. Three childhood friends who passed out of Christ Nagar, Vellayambalam in 1990 and carried in them a severe passion for the vintage bike Yezdi, decided to make a trip of their lifetime and travel around 700 kilometers through the bare, harsh and lifeless terrain of the Himalayas. The route that the three friends - Sreejith P, an Airforce Officer, Arun Eappen, a Redhat employee and Sreejith K S, Medical Representative, decided upon was the Manali – Kargil route.

 

 

“The plan was to reach Kargil on July 26, on the Kargil Vijay Diwas,” says Sreejith P.

The journey actually started for them from Chandigarh. They had transported their bikes by train to Chandigarh from where the trip was given a big flag off by the Yezdi - Jawa Club members of Chandigarh.

 

Click Here To See The Pictures - Part I

 

Chandigarh to Manali is a distance of 305 kilometers. The trio set off in the wee hours of the morning and reached Kulu by midnight.

“A very beautiful place,” Sreejith recalls, “but the local people could squeeze the life out of you, that's how much of a deceit they can pull on you in the pretext of hospitality. Also it is a place where the drug business is rampant.” However, a flash of Sreejith's Air Force ID card had every one of them fall in line.

 

Kulu – Manali was a 20 km ride that took them more than one hour to cover in the bitter cold rain.

“Food and accommodation is comparatively cheap in Manali.”

At Manali the unexpected, which is always to be expected on a ride such as this, struck them hard and left them limping; atleast with Sreejith that was the case.

 

 

“I had walked into a workshop in search of a mechanic to tune up our bikes. The inside wasn't very well lit and as I walked in from the bright sunlight dimmed my vision momentarily. So I couldn't see that there was a gap for the hydraulic lift in front of me on the floor. I stepped into the gap and fractured the muscle of my ankle.”

The doctor advised him a few weeks rest, but the doctor also happened to be a big fan of Yezdi bikes. Learning of their mission and understanding the passion that fuelled it, he strapped the ankle tight so that it would not move an inch. The hardship of enduring a ride with a broken ankle turned out to be just a teaser for what lay ahead.

The route to be followed was Manali – Rohtang Pass – Keylong – Pang – Upshi – Leh, which totaled 473 kilometers. Leh – Kargil was another 234 km. It took them 4 days to cover the first 473 kilometers.

“Travelling with a fractured ankle doesn't feel half bad until you travel on rough, uneven roads. Of the 473 kilometers, there was a total of maybe 70 – 80 kilometers of paved roads, but not in a continuous stretch.”

The first day saw them ride for 13 straight hours through nail biting cold and blurred vision caused by mist.

“The road blocks on the route would certainly test your patience, but the real test comes in the form of muck; sometimes so deep that three quarters of the front wheel of our bikes would sink into it. Do not nourish any hope of anyone helping you, because no one will, unless it happens to be the Army.”

 

 

And Rohtang Pass is...

“A place with a few small tents selling some basic items and food.”

The landscape that surrounded them can never be explained, because it can never be imagined unless and until you experience it personally. Bare, lifeless, untarnished nature at its best is what the photographs convey.

Day two had them cover a very rough terrain from Rohtang Pass until Jispa.

“En route is the place called Thandi. Make sure to stock up your fuel reserve because the next petrol pump comes after 365 kilometers.”

The charted schedule needed them to reach Pang, but work on a bridge near Jispa brought all traffic to a halt. Hotels at Jispa town were already taken by those who had been caught in the block earlier. After much difficulty, they managed to find a room to spend the night.

 

“We were told that the morning breakfast would be a buffet and that it would cast us Rs. 250. And the buffet consisted of bread, butter and jam”

They reached Pang on the third day after passing through a gorgeous terrain of picturesque landscape that's permanently associated with the 'Wild West' movies.

 

 

“There are a lot of rented tents available at Pang. For accommodation alone the charge is Rs. 100. Food costs extra and is very expensive, but is good nevertheless. There is an Army Camp nearby with satellite phone facilities, which they would share with you if your need is genuinely urgent.”

They reached Leh on the fourth day by 10-O-clock.

 

Click Here To See The Pictures - Part II

 

 

“Saying that is easy. But you need to personally ride through these stretches to know what it’s like. After Pang, there wasn't even a 'road'; just a dirt path, distinguishable from the rest of the Earth only by the wheel marks of vehicles that had gone before.”

They still had three days to spare before reaching Kargil. On the first day, they visited the Pangong Tso(lake) which Sreejith describes as 'the most beautiful place we saw in the entire journey'. The highest motorable road in the world is the Leh – Khardung La road at 18380 feet, which they traveled on the second day.

 

 

 

 

“There is an Army restaurant at Khardung La, which is the world's highest restaurant and also a place where they make you the best tea in the world.”

They rested for a day to 'recharge the batteries', according Sreejith and on the eight day of the trip, after starting off from Manali, they were headed for Kargil. But on the way, came the final twist that always makes life stranger than fiction.

 

 

“We broke the chain on one of our bikes. The nearest workshop was more than 40 kilometers away.”

They hitched a ride on a truck. The pathetic condition of the road resulted in a bumpy ride, which made sure that the bike was all but dismantled by the time they reached the next town.

However, they did reach Kargil on July 26th, the Kargil Vijay Diwas, despite all the obstacles on the way... but only to be told that the ceremony would be carried out at Dras, 57 km away.

“Seeing that place will tell you why retaining this mountain was named the most vital and the war winning operation carried out by the Indian Army during the war. Boards are placed which consistently remind you – 'You are under enemy observation'.”

 

 

Once they reached the venue, they were told that only invited guests could attend the function. However, they were given special entry after making the army officers realise the significance of their trip and how important it was for them. So they did attend the Kargil Vijay Diwas function, in Kargil, after having journeyed through some of the toughest terrains in the world, which had tested not only the strength of their bones, but of their will as well.

“The height, the numbing cold, the surreal yet enchanting landscape – it all does things on you, changes the person that you are. You realise how insignificant you are, the perspective of your thoughts change; you become a different, a better person altogether,” says Sreeejith.

 

The journey didn't end at Kargil. The three friends rode further on till Srinagar, which was the place they chose to bring the ride to an end and go their separate ways. But this momentous journey  was only a warm up to the bigger challenge that these friends have already started planning.

“We would like to cover the entire North East on our bikes. We are doing the research and gathering the necessary details. Hopefully within two years,” smiles Sreejith, bringing the narration to a conclusion.  

 
 
Report Abuse    Report Error    Comments SMS/E-Mail
Bookmark and Share
 
News Features Columns